Egypt has been capturing the imagination of people for centuries. We all think of pyramids, camels and deserts when we think of Egypt. In the UK, our local theme park features an Egyptian section, so when I was in Egypt, I had to keep reminding myself that this was all real and not a fake, like the theme park. Egypt is a place for adventure.
Booking independently or with a tour operator
If you are planning to stay in a hotel near the Red Sea and intend to stay in one spot, you can easily travel independently, although you may find some good deals with tour operators.
We did something we rarely did and booked through a tour operator; we let them know where we wanted to go, and they arranged a tour with guides and a Nile cruise. It didn’t cost as much as I thought it would, especially as it was a private tour.
We chose this method because it was immediately after the COVID pandemic, and we didn’t want to add any more stress. Additionally, I was busy arranging multiple trips for the rest of the year. It was nice to have one less trip to plan.
It turned out that having a guide with you is a great advantage, more so than in other countries I have visited. They can help you understand the history of the place, but more importantly, they can help you avoid being scammed, which I will discuss later.
If you want to travel independently, it is possible and will be cheaper. Conduct thorough research before you go so you know what to expect and how to avoid being scammed.
To become a tour guide in Egypt, you need to study for a certificate for two years, which means they are all professionals. At least one of our guides had done a degree in Egyptian history and still managed to pitch her talk at the right level for us.
Even if you don’t hire a tour guide for the entire holiday, I suggest picking a few of the significant sites to tour with a guide. Private guides are more expensive, but that does mean you have the opportunity to linger and take photographs or rest when the heat becomes too much.
When to visit
It is best to visit between April and May, as the rest of the year can be very hot.
If you decide to visit early in the year, consider the timing of Ramadan, as it may impact your experience. During Ramadan, as a tourist, you may expect attractions to have shorter hours, and eating in public during fasting hours is frowned upon.
Egyptian Travel Tips
- Check your government’s official travel advice. Currently, the UK advises against travel within 20 km of the Libyan border.
- Stick to bottled water.
- If you’re eating street food, be cautious, as hygiene standards can be poor at times.
- Tipping is expected nearly everywhere, so get some small change.
- Bring a hat as there isn’t much shade.
- Barter at the markets, but don’t accept tea in shops unless you’re serious about making a purchase.
- Use ride-hailing apps like Uber and Careem.
- If you use a taxi, confirm the price or check that the meter is working.
- English is understood in most tourist areas.
- Dress modestly if leaving your hotel resort.
- If you are seeing a lot of temples and tombs, do some research beforehand so the names of the gods or pharaohs mean something to you. You don’t need to conduct extensive research, but you may want to watch a few video clips on topics such as Tutankhamun or Rameses II.
Scams
The people in Egypt are generally friendly, but unfortunately, some individuals try to scam tourists. Since scammers often congregate in areas where tourists are present, it can feel like everyone is trying to scam you.
The difference in Egypt that surprised me was that the people trying to scam you are so open. They often work right next to the official staff at tourist sites or are actively working at places such as the airport.
Towards the end of my holiday, I was at an airport and saw two official airport staff members walk towards me. Realising I was heading to the toilets, which was the only place I could be going, one diverted and stood in front of the toilet entrance with his hand out. I had visited a few toilets at Egyptian airports and read the signs stating that you don’t need to tip to use the toilets, so I took no notice of the man. By the time I came out, he had gone back to work.
When we visited the pyramids in Cairo, we went through the turnstile at the entrance and immediately encountered a man checking tickets. My daughter was just about to show her ticket when our guide told us he was a scammer. He was checking the tickets of three American girls and planned to inform them that their tickets were invalid.
Because scammers often impersonate officials and are not stopped by other officials, it is usually impossible to determine whether a person is a scammer or not.
It’s a shame that this happens in Egypt, as it puts some people off and they don’t return.
Cruises
Cruises on the Nile can be part of a holiday or the main attraction of a holiday. It is undoubtedly the best way to travel to different tourist sights through a hot and dusty country.
Most Nile cruises operate between Luxor and Aswan, lasting between 3 and 7 days. Typically, people travel on small cruise ships, which offer a range of options from standard to luxury.
For a more authentic experience, consider a Felucca cruise; however, these are better suited for short trips, such as a day cruise. They have very limited or basic facilities.
I would recommend a Nile cruise even though I didn’t enjoy it because I was ill and then had a wooden ceiling tile fall on my head. I can’t think of a better way to sightsee than from a swimming pool. You can watch the palm-fringed villages pass by and see fishermen casting nets from feluccas or little boys fishing from the water’s edge. Then, as night approaches, you can watch the sunset and then lie on the loungers watching the stars appear.
Eventually, you have to exert some energy and change clothes to experience the fine dining or a drink at the bar.
When booking a cruise, it is essential to review what is included in the package. Some ships include tours to the attractions, or you pay extra for them. We arranged for our tour guide to meet us at each port of call. This time he travelled by car, but if they have the space, he travels on board.
Often, Abu Simbel can be added as an attraction when taking a cruise, as it is accessible from Aswan.
The Red Sea
For sun, sea and snorkelling, a holiday by the Red Sea is perfect. There are long stretches of golden sand and luxury resorts. There are Coral reefs to swim around, and if you dive, the Thistlegorm Wreck or Ras Mohammed National Park is an exciting opportunity.
You can stay in Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, or El Gouna. Hurghada is suitable for families, as it has everything you need, and you can find some good package deals; however, it can be crowded. Sharm el-Sheikh is renowned for its luxury resorts, diving, and vibrant nightlife. Dahab is best suited for budget travellers, while El Gouna is more expensive, offering a planned layout that is both safe and eco-friendly.
If you want to add a little history to your trip, consider arranging a trip from Hurghada to Luxor. It can be a long day, but it’s worth it.
Activities
Alongside snorkelling and driving, you might consider a 4×4 ride through the desert or a camel trek. If that seems too tiring, what about a hot air balloon ride at sunrise over Luxor and the ancient tombs and temples? A traditional Bedouin dinner under the stars requires little effort and makes for a lovely way to conclude the day. However, if you enjoy shopping, brush up on your haggling skills and visit the local bazaars.
The top places to visit in Egypt
Cairo
Cairo is the capital city and is home to the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx. At the Giza Pyramid complex, there are three large pyramids and three smaller ones.
You can go inside the pyramids, but you will need to purchase an additional ticket. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go inside, as I was told there wasn’t much to see, and you have to bend over in some of the tunnels. My Husband is also partially sighted and doesn’t see so well in dim light. However, my husband and I watched some YouTube clips and decided it was something we wanted to do.
Firstly, it is hot in the tunnels, so take some water and if possible, leave your bags with someone outside. We left ours with our daughter. If you are not steady on your feet, then it is probably best to avoid. You do have to bend down in the tunnels, as the floor slopes downward, and then climb a short ladder. We coped fine, but we did notice a young man in his twenties sitting on the ground halfway into the pyramid, looking shattered and wiping his forehead. He was a tall man, so he probably found it harder in the tunnels, but they aren’t long.
There is definitely a wow factor when you are in a pyramid. Not because it looks like anything special inside, but being in a structure that you probably saw photos of as a child, and now you have the chance to go inside, is fantastic. From inside, you gain a better understanding of the pyramid’s size and what it must have been like when people first explored it.
You can walk around the Giza Pyramid complex, but it’s hot, and you might find it easier to hire a taxi at the gate. Be careful and agree on a price.
There are also camels and horses available for riding, but be aware of pushy vendors and potential misunderstandings regarding the price and what you will receive for it.
Our tour guide persuaded us to ride a camel. I have done this a few times and always feel I am about to fall off, especially when they go down a slope. However, I was surprised at how quickly we escaped the crowds, and all I could see was our camels, the sand, and the pyramids. It felt unreal and like something out of a book.
Don’t forget to visit the Sphinx. I thought it would be smaller; my daughter thought it should have been bigger. Have a look and decide for yourself.
The Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) has been stating for the last few years that it will be open soon, but the opening has been repeatedly delayed. Some parts of the museum are open to the public, but not the Tutankhamun galleries and the Khufu solar boat annexe. Some of Tutankhamun’s artefacts are still housed in the old Egyptian Museum, but they will eventually be relocated to the GEM. If you haven’t seen Tutankhamun’s mask, it is worth seeing.
When the Museum is fully open, I expect it to attract large crowds, so be sure to book a ticket as early as possible.
Luxor
The Valley of the Kings is a site near Luxor where ancient pharaohs were buried. The tombs were carved into the rocky cliffs. Over sixty tombs have been discovered in this area so far, including the Tomb of Tutankhamun. The general public is only allowed in a few of the tombs.
You can purchase a ticket to the site, which includes a few tombs, but I suggest paying for the additional tombs, as they are fascinating.
It was amazing walking in the tombs and seeing hieroglyphs covering all the walls and ceilings. We paid extra to visit the Rameses VI tomb, and it was one of our favourite tombs because it had no perspex shields in front of the hieroglyphs and had relatively few people in there. We learnt that the hills were used because they pointed upwards, resembling the pyramids, but were much cheaper to build, and they weren’t as obvious for robbers to find.
The Temple of Hatshepsut was built for one of the few female pharaohs in ancient Egypt. It looks huge from the front, but it is not as big as I thought it would be, as it is carved directly into the cliffs. Stunning reliefs show Hatshepsut’s birth and her trade expedition to the land of Punt. There are also statues of her with a beard, because it was expected that only men could become pharaohs, and therefore, all pharaohs were depicted with beards.
It felt very hot when we entered the temple party because it was crowded with local schoolchildren, many of whom were still wearing winter coats. We then had about 40 kids come up and say hello to us. Previously, at the Pyramids of Giza, a group of schoolchildren approached my daughter and asked if they could take a photo of her. She found it most strange to be sitting next to one of the wonders of the world and having her picture taken, yet not even including the pyramid in the photo.
The Karnak complex is a fascinating, vast, and crowded site that is well worth visiting. It is one of the largest religious complexes in the world. We had a guide who showed us the highlights and then let us wander around on our own, which was ideal.
I liked The Great Hypostyle Hall. This area featured 134 pillars adorned with hieroglyphs, some of which stood over 20 meters tall.
Our guide showed us a statue where one pharaoh removed the previous pharaoh’s name and replaced it with his own.
There is a sacred, man-made lake that was used for ritual purification. It is a peaceful area to head to if the crowds get a bit too much.
Near the lake is the scarab beetle statue. Legend has it that if you walk around the statue three times, you will find love, five times you will have good health, and seven times your wish will come true, or you will be lucky.
Abu Simbel (from Aswan)
To get to the Abu Simbel Temples from Aswan, it is easiest to take a short flight. Alternatively, you can take a minibus through the hot desert, but it takes approximately 4 hours to travel by road, as it is 173 miles (280 km) from Aswan.
There are two temples built for the Pharaoh Ramses II, one of Egypt’s most powerful leaders. The larger temple was dedicated to Ramses and the gods Amun, Ra-Horakhty and Ptah. The smaller temple was devoted to his wife, Nefertari, and the goddess Hathor.
It seemed strange that sometimes Nefertari, Ramses’ favourite wife, was depicted as a cow or had cow ears, but we learnt that this was a sign of fertility. She also had the honour of her statue being the same height as Ramses, which wasn’t usually allowed.
Twice a year, on February 22 and October 22, the sunlight penetrates the inner sanctuary and illuminates all the gods except the god of the underworld.
These temples were designed to impress, and they still do centuries later, with four colossal statues of Rameses II, 66 feet tall (20 metres), guarding the larger temple and six smaller statues guarding Nefertari’s temple.
In 1960, they began building the Aswan Dam on Lake Nasser, which, however, meant the water would rise and cover the temples. With UNESCO’s help, the temples were disassembled into blocks and moved piece by piece to higher ground, where they were reassembled.
My husband was impressed by these temples and also interested in how they were relocated. At this point, my illness was worsening, but I did find a seat to sit down on. I want to return when I can appreciate them better and not be desperate for sleep.
Aswan
The Philae Temple is about 5 miles (7km) from Aswan city centre.
It was relocated from Philae Island to Agilika Island when the Aswan Low Dam was built. Unfortunately, some parts of the temple were damaged as the water used to flood the temple each year before it was moved.
To get to this temple, you need to take a short boat ride. It is a lovely location for a temple, boasting beautiful architecture and a gentle breeze from the lake.
Summary
Egypt is fascinating. I kept thinking I was walking around the movie scene from Raiders of the Lost Ark, looking at hieroglyphs from some ancient civilisation from a Stargate episode, or watching out for suspicious people on my cruise in case someone was about to be murdered, like they did in Death on the Nile. Often, it felt unreal. Some days, I struggled with sightseeing as I had a virus, but I am pleased that I coped until the last day, when I took to my bed.
To me, Egypt is about history, strange hieroglyphs and ancient gods. But perhaps I should have finished my holiday with a week of relaxation by the Red Sea. I loved Egypt, but found touring and getting a virus hard work. To clarify, I don’t think I contracted my virus in Egypt, but rather from someone at special assistance in Heathrow Airport who helped us. I don’t want you to think you need to avoid Egypt in case you get ill. I did, however, tell people back in the UK that I had caught some dreadful, unknown disease while exploring the mysterious pyramids and tombs.
I hope you get a chance to visit Egypt; it is certainly a holiday I will remember.
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