Singapore is one of those places that looks small on a map but feels much bigger once you arrive.
At around 736 km², it is only about half the size of London, yet there is an impressive amount to see and do. Skyscrapers, tropical gardens, wildlife, beaches, temples, shopping malls and some seriously good food are all packed into a relatively small space.
If you are flying from Europe to somewhere such as Bali, Australia or New Zealand, Singapore is also a brilliant place to break up a long journey.
And that is exactly how I first came to visit.
I spent a week in Singapore as part of a multi-country holiday, and I am very glad I did. It gave me a chance to adjust to a new time zone before continuing my journey, but it also turned out to be much more than a convenient stopover.
I found myself thinking, why had I never considered Singapore as a holiday destination before?
It is modern and incredibly clean, but it hasn’t lost its connection with nature. One minute you can be surrounded by skyscrapers, and the next you can be walking through a tropical garden or looking for animals in the darkness.
So, if you have a long-haul flight with a stopover in Singapore, I would seriously consider leaving the airport and having a look around.
You might find, as I did, that the stopover becomes part of the holiday.
Only have a few hours? You can still see Singapore
If you don’t have several days to spare, don’t automatically assume that Singapore is off the itinerary.
If your transit time is long enough, you may be able to join one of the free city tours available to transit passengers. The tours last around 2½ hours and are conducted in English.
The tours are a great option if you want to see a little of Singapore without having to organise transport yourself.
You do need to book, and spaces can be limited, so don’t leave it until the last minute. Check the current arrangements before you travel, as tour times and eligibility can change.
https://www.changiairport.com/en/experience/tours/free-singapore-tour.html
There is something quite appealing about being able to leave the airport, see a few sights and then return knowing that someone else has done the worrying about getting you back in time for your flight.
It could be the perfect break in a long-haul trip.
When is the best time to visit Singapore?
If Singapore is part of a longer trip, your dates will probably be dictated by your main destination rather than Singapore itself.
Singapore is hot and humid throughout the year, and rain can arrive when you least expect it. Some months are wetter than others (November to January), but I wouldn’t let the weather put you off.
We certainly didn’t.
If you are planning your trip around an event or festival, check what is happening during your dates. Singapore celebrates festivals from many different cultures, including Chinese New Year, Deepavali, Thaipusam and Vesak Day.
National Day in August is another spectacular time to visit, with celebrations and fireworks.
And if you are visiting around Christmas, parts of the city are transformed with impressive light displays.
Things to do in Singapore
There is far more to Singapore than you can fit into one visit. These were some of the highlights for me.
Supertree Grove: Singapore’s most recognisable sight
If you’ve ever seen a photograph of Singapore, chances are you’ve already seen the Supertrees.
These enormous tree-like structures at The Gardens by the Bay are one of the city’s most recognisable sights. They range from around 25 to 50 metres high and are covered in plants.
Some even have solar panels.
During the day, they are impressive. At night, they become something else entirely.
The free evening light and sound show transforms the Supertrees with music and colour.
It can apparently get very crowded, but we were lucky. When we visited, we could lie wherever we wanted and look up at the trees.
Maybe we chose a quiet evening. Maybe we just got lucky.
The show is interesting, but I suspect that for many visitors the photographs are just as important!
If you want to go higher, you can pay to visit the observatory or walk along the aerial walkway high above the ground. Check current prices and opening arrangements before visiting, as these can change.
Cloud Forest and Flower Dome
If you like plants, don’t stop at the Supertrees.
The Cloud Forest and Flower Dome are nearby and are worth adding to your itinerary.
The Cloud Forest contains one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls. You can walk around the different levels and along aerial walkways while looking at plants from cloud-forest environments.
Some of the plants are enormous.
Others are so tiny that you might walk straight past them.
Good luck finding the miniature orchids!
The Flower Dome is a huge greenhouse containing plants from around the world. One of my favourite sights was the Baobab tree.
There are also regularly changing exhibitions, so it is worth checking what is being shown when you visit. You may find that a special exhibition gives you another reason to go.
Marina Bay: the place to wander at night
If you only have one evening in Singapore, I would spend at least some of it around Marina Bay.
During the day, you can admire the architecture and skyline. At night, the whole area changes as the buildings light up and reflect across the water.
It is a great place to wander.
You don’t necessarily need an itinerary. Walk around the bay, stop for a drink, take photographs and watch the city come alive.
This is also where you will find the famous Merlion statue.
The Merlion has the head of a lion and the body of a fish and has become one of Singapore’s most recognisable symbols. It isn’t enormous, but it is very popular. Don’t be surprised if you have to wait for your turn to get the classic photograph.
There is also a free light and water show in the Marina Bay area. Check the current times before you visit.
Sands SkyPark Observation Deck
If you want to see Singapore from above, head to the Sands SkyPark Observation Deck.
It sits high above the city at Marina Bay Sands and gives you a fantastic view across Marina Bay and beyond.
Sunset is a particularly popular time to visit, so book ahead if you have your heart set on seeing the city change from daylight to darkness.
The public observation deck isn’t completely 360 degrees because part of the hotel blocks the view, but there is still plenty to see.
There are also bars and restaurants at the top.
One word of warning: if you book a restaurant because you want a spectacular window view, check where your table will be. You don’t want to pay for the experience only to discover that your table is nowhere near the window!
Universal Studios Singapore
If you have been to a Universal Studios park before, you’ll know roughly what to expect.
There are seven themed zones with rides and attractions. If you’re visiting as part of a short stopover, don’t try to do everything.
Instead, have a look at the attractions beforehand and decide which ones you really want to experience. That way, you won’t spend half the day wandering around trying to decide what to do.
And remember to take a water bottle. Singapore is hot, and there are water-filling stations available.
The Night Safari: my Singapore highlight
I don’t normally visit zoos unless they offer something a little different.
Singapore certainly does.
The Mandai Wildlife Reserve has several wildlife parks, including Singapore Zoo, Bird Paradise, River Wonders, Rainforest Wild ASIA and the Night Safari.
We chose the Night Safari.
And even though it rained heavily, it ended up being my favourite experience in Singapore. When we arrived, it was absolutely pouring. The small show before the safari was cancelled, so we waited and hoped the weather would improve.
Eventually, it did.
You can explore the Night Safari by tram or on foot. We decided to do both.
We took the tram first while it was still raining. Later, when the rain stopped, we set off along the walking trails.
This is where things became interesting.
The animals aren’t necessarily kept behind obvious cages. The park uses natural-looking barriers such as ditches and waterways.
In daylight, I’m sure this would be perfectly obvious.
At night?
Not so much.
When I saw the first animal in the semi-darkness, I was convinced it could reach me. It wasn’t until later that I noticed the ditch between us.
We were often the only people walking along the paths. Sometimes we could hear an animal but couldn’t see it. Other times we could see something moving but couldn’t work out what it was.
And then there were the glowing eyes.
I thought I was extremely brave when I walked through the bat enclosure. During the day, I wouldn’t have thought twice about it.
At night, with bats flying around me? Completely different story!
The tram ride takes around 30 minutes, but for me, the walking trails were the highlight. There was something exciting about not knowing what you were going to see next.
If you want to see lots of animals clearly and learn more about them, visit the wildlife parks during the day as well. But if you enjoy a little mystery, the Night Safari is something special.
Just remember to take an umbrella.
Orchard Road
If shopping is your thing, head to Orchard Road.
There are huge shopping malls, high-end designer stores and high-street shops, as well as plenty of restaurants and cafés.
You can easily spend a whole day here if shopping is your priority.
Little India and Chinatown
Singapore’s multicultural identity becomes particularly obvious in Little India and Chinatown.
You’ll find restaurants, specialist shops, markets and distinctive architecture.
They are also particularly interesting during festivals.
We weren’t particularly interested in shopping or eating when we visited, and without those things on our agenda, we found there wasn’t a huge amount that appealed to us, so we didn’t stay long.
Singapore Flyer
The Singapore Flyer is a 165-metre-high Ferris wheel with impressive views across the city.
If you’ve been on the London Eye, you’ll have a good idea of what to expect.
The capsules are large and air-conditioned, with space to move around as well as seats in the middle. One rotation takes around 30 minutes.
You can make the experience more special by having a Singapore Sling, enjoying a meal or even hiring an entire capsule.
I can think of worse places to propose!
Booking ahead is sensible if you are visiting during a busy period.
Sentosa Island
Sentosa is Singapore’s resort island and can be reached by road, monorail or cable car. We chose the cable car and enjoyed the journey almost as much as the destination.
There are plenty of attractions on Sentosa, including Universal Studios, an aquarium and Madame Tussauds.
But you don’t have to spend a fortune.
You can visit one of the beaches. We went to Palawan Beach, which was relatively quiet when we visited. The water quality is monitored, and swimming is stopped when conditions aren’t suitable.
Later, we were told to leave the sea at a nearby beach because a thunderstorm was approaching. I actually appreciated this. It was reassuring to know someone was watching the weather and looking after visitors.
The beach itself was attractive, although there was one thing I hadn’t expected.
Cargo ships.
Lots of them.
They were lined up offshore like a traffic jam, which slightly spoiled the peaceful tropical scene.
From the beach, you can cross a suspension bridge to a small island with a sign describing it as the southernmost point of continental Asia.
Singapore Botanic Gardens
Sometimes you need a break from sightseeing.
The Singapore Botanic Gardens are a perfect place for one.
The gardens are free to enter and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, although some areas, including the National Orchid Garden, have an admission charge.
You can wander through the gardens, find a shady bench, have something to eat or slow down for a while.
If you’re travelling with children, there is also a children’s garden.
The gardens are huge, so don’t make the mistake of thinking you’ll “just have a quick look”. Download a map before you arrive and choose a trail or two.
Or take a picnic and find somewhere beside a lake. Sometimes doing nothing for an hour is exactly what you need on holiday.
Singapore’s festivals
One of the things I like about Singapore is the way different cultures are reflected throughout the city.
Depending on when you visit, you could experience Chinese New Year, the Hungry Ghost Festival, Deepavali, Thaipusam or Vesak Day.
There are also celebrations along the Singapore River and various events throughout the year.
The Dragon Boat Festival is particularly exciting if you get the chance to see it.
The boats are packed with paddlers working together to race across the water, accompanied by a drummer keeping everyone in time.
There is much more to the festival than racing, with dragon dances, food, storytelling and performances adding to the atmosphere.
If your dates are flexible, check the events calendar before booking your trip. You might find that your holiday coincides with something you wouldn’t otherwise have experienced.
Where should you stay in Singapore?
I don’t usually recommend expensive hotels. There has to be a good reason for me to spend a lot of money on accommodation.
For us, Marina Bay Sands was the exception.
We decided to splash out on one of the higher rooms, and I have to admit, it was worth it. But we didn’t stay there for the entire week.
Instead, we booked a budget hotel for the first few days and used that time to do most of our sightseeing.
Then, as soon as check-in time arrived, we moved into Marina Bay Sands.
We still did some sightseeing, but we kept it local because we wanted to spend as much time as possible enjoying the hotel.
And yes, I went to the infinity pool.
I went as soon as it opened in the morning and was lucky enough to have it almost to myself.
That was a very different experience from the busy pool I had expected.
The hotel also has its own light show and numerous restaurants and facilities.
But surprisingly, the pool wasn’t what impressed me most.
It was the service.
Despite being such an enormous hotel, the staff made the experience feel personal. The restaurant staff knew my name soon after I arrived and remembered it.
That small detail really stood out to me.
Of course, you don’t need to stay at Marina Bay Sands to enjoy Singapore.
There are plenty of more reasonably priced hotels.
Marina Bay is convenient for sightseeing but can be expensive. Chinatown can be a better choice if you are looking for somewhere cheaper. Families might like Sentosa, while shoppers may prefer staying around Orchard Road.
What should you eat in Singapore?
Chinese, Malay and Indian cultures influence Singaporean cuisine, so there is plenty to try.
Here are a few dishes that caught my attention:
Laksa – a spicy noodle soup that can contain prawns, fish, cockles and vegetables, usually with coconut milk.
Hainanese chicken rice – chicken served with fragrant rice and sauces, often accompanied by chilli and garlic.
Kaya toast – toast with a sweet coconut and egg jam, often served with coffee and sometimes a boiled egg.
Chilli crab – crab cooked in a spicy, sweet and savoury chilli-tomato sauce. It can be messy because you’ll need to crack open the shell, but that’s part of the fun.
Nasi lemak – coconut and pandan-infused rice served with various accompaniments such as chicken, fish, egg, vegetables, sambal and fried anchovies.
And if none of those appeal to you?
Don’t worry.
Singapore has plenty of Western food too.
Getting around Singapore
One of the good things about Singapore is how easy it is to get around.
MRT
The MRT is the Mass Rapid Transit system and is usually the easiest way to travel around the city.
The network is extensive, trains are frequent, and fares are relatively inexpensive.
It can get crowded during rush hour, but outside those times it is an easy way to get around.
There are also rail connections from Changi Airport into the city.
Buses
The buses are clean and air-conditioned.
Bus stops are generally easy to identify and have information about the routes.
I tried using some apps to find out when the next bus would arrive, but I didn’t always find their predictions particularly reliable.
Google Maps worked better for me when I wanted to work out which bus to catch.
Taxis and ride-hailing
We used taxis when we had suitcases.
They cost more than public transport, but sometimes convenience wins.
If you’ve just arrived after a long flight and are dragging suitcases through a hot city, you may decide that saving a few pounds isn’t worth the effort!
Grab is a popular ride-hailing option.
Transport fares and payment methods can change, so check the latest information before travelling.
Money and language
Singapore uses the Singapore dollar (S$).
For a short visit, you can probably use a credit or debit card for most things, although I always prefer to carry a little local cash just in case.
English is widely spoken, so English-speaking visitors should have no trouble communicating. The four official languages are English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil.
You may also hear Singlish, a local variety of English influenced by other languages and cultures.
Don’t worry if you don’t understand every word at first. You’ll soon get used to it.
Is Singapore worth a stopover?
Definitely.
I only spent a week in Singapore, and even then I barely scratched the surface.
It isn’t the cheapest destination, particularly if you spend every day visiting paid attractions. But you can keep the cost under control by mixing expensive attractions with free experiences.
And there are plenty of free things to enjoy.
For me, the appeal of Singapore is the contrast.
You can stand beneath huge skyscrapers at Marina Bay and then find yourself surrounded by tropical plants.
You can spend the morning shopping in a modern mall and the evening walking through a wildlife park in the darkness.
You can eat food influenced by several different cultures without leaving the city.
It is modern without feeling completely removed from nature. And it is busy without making you feel that you have to rush everywhere.
My Singapore highlight
My favourite experience was the Night Safari. Not because I saw the most animals. Not because the weather was perfect. Quite the opposite. It was raining. There weren’t many people around.
We couldn’t always see what was making the noises around us. And every now and then, we’d spot a pair of eyes looking back at us from the darkness, which made it more memorable.
It felt like an adventure rather than simply another attraction to tick off a list. That’s probably what I remember most about Singapore.
Not the things I expected to enjoy, but the little experiences I hadn’t planned for.
So next time you’re booking a long-haul flight, and Singapore appears as a stopover option, don’t dismiss it as somewhere to spend a few hours in the airport.
Get out. Explore.
Try something you’ve never eaten before.
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