My arrival
Arriving in Andorra was dramatic. A few hours before, I had landed in sunny Barcelona, and driving into the mountains, I was surprised to see a fork of lightning hit a hilltop. As I proceeded, the sun disappeared, and suddenly, a torrent of rain fell, making it very difficult to see where to go on the twisty roads.
It would have been helpful if I had known how to switch the wipers on, but that wasn’t something that seemed necessary to find when I picked the car up in brilliant sunshine. Spotting a gravel area, I quickly pulled the car off the road. A young Spanish man came up to the car, thinking something was wrong as I had pulled in so abruptly. I was impressed with his kindness and how he swapped to fluent English as soon as he realised I didn’t speak a word of Spanish.
Continuing with my wipers happily doing their job, I began to relax, but then the hail stones fell. I wondered if the car insurance would cover hailstorm damage. They sounded like cannonballs on the metal roof, and I fully expected to see a crack in the windscreen.
Having passed the two weather-related tests to get to Andorra, there was one final hurdle – driving up a stream that was pouring through the border control area. Water was flowing over a brick wall and down the concrete zone of the border. Their only drain was hopelessly small, so Andorra had a new river.
Andorra is pretty, even in the rain. Many people think of it as a winter destination as it has some good skiing slopes; however, it is still very popular in the summer.
Getting there
Getting to Andorra is not quick. There are no public airports, so you can’t fly directly there. Instead, you must fly to France or Spain, then hire a car or take a bus. There are no trains, either.
We chose to fly to Barcelona and then hire a car for the 128-mile journey, which takes 2 1/2 hours to 3 hours.
Leaving Andorra at the end of the day in summer can take ages as queues form at the customs border when the day-trippers return home after a busy shopping day.
Interesting facts
Andorra is an interesting little country in the mountains between France and Spain. It is the 16th smallest country in the world, with 85,000 living there, mainly in the valleys, with a few perched on the valley sides. It is a principality, which means a prince rules it, but in Andorra’s case, it has 2 princes. One is the president of France, and the other is the Bishop of Urgell, who both became princes when elected to their positions. So, if you wanted to be a prince but weren’t born one, you could become a prince by being the president of France or a Bishop in Urgell. Easy right?
Andorra hasn’t fought in a war for centuries. In WWI, it declared war against Germany but didn’t send anyone to fight as it didn’t have an army, although three people volunteered. They then didn’t get around to signing a peace treaty until 1957.
The official language of Andorra is Catalan; most people can also speak French or Spanish; however, English can usually be found on menus. I was very impressed by the receptionist at our hotel. He would say hello, and depending on which language you answered, he would speak French, Spanish, or English fluently.
Winter
Andorra is often considered a winter sports destination with plenty to offer. There are ski resorts such as Vallnord-Pal Arinsal, which offers skiing and snowboarding for beginners and intermediate-level skiers; Ordino Arcalís, which has circuits for beginners, medium-level, and advanced skiers; and Grandvalira, one of the largest ski resorts in Europe and has excellent slopes for the very beginner.
Otherwise, you can also go snowshoeing, dog sledging, or ice skating.
Tourists and shopping
Although Andorra is known for its winter sports it has a thriving tourist industry all year round. It has the most tourists per capita in the world. Due to its low tax, many tourists come from France and Spain to make the most of Andorra’s cheaper products. The capital, Andorra la Vella, is fantastic for shopaholics. You can find fashion shops such as Lacoste and Zara, luxury brands such as Burberry and Armani, electronics, perfumeries, and many high-end products. Tobacco is cheap; they grow a lot of it in Andorra. We also saw shops selling weapons like taser guns, nun chucks, and throwing stars. You would definitely have a problem with customs if you tried to bring them back home.
There are over 1500 shops in Andorra and four shopping malls in Andorra la Vella. You could happily spend days shopping until your credit cards complain.
Walking/ Hiking
Don’t worry if shopping isn’t your thing; there are other things to do. Walking is a great activity to take you away from the noise and buzz of Andorra la Ville, a very thriving town.
There are over 60 hikes in Andorra, from a simple walk in Andorra la Vella to walks requiring skill and expertise. Remember, this is a country full of mountains. On the walks, you can see beautiful landscapes and maybe end up at one of the stunning glacial lakes.
One of the easiest walks is in Andorra La Vella (The Sola Irrigation Canal Trail). The first bit is a 10–15-minute walk up the valley side; if you are unfit like me, it takes a lot of huffing and puffing, but then the walk is all flat. It is a very pleasant walk past cockerels and grapes growing, with wonderful views down to the town below. We took a cake to eat at the picnic table and there are plenty of seats to rest and admire the view. The whole walk takes about an hour if you include lots of stops to take photos.
Where to stay
We chose to stay in Andorra la Vella as it was a summer break, but in winter, you might prefer to stay near a ski resort such as Soldeu near the Grandvalira ski resort.
In Andorra, you have a choice of hotels, from the Hotel Plaza Andorra with its spa to a hostel, Hostal Cal Forner.
We stayed in the NH Andorra La Vella, a great location with helpful staff, but the carpark can be difficult to get to; they will send you excellent details on how to get to their carpark, including a YouTube clip. Also, take your kettle if you like drinks in your room.
Where to eat
There is plenty of choice in Andorra, from fine dining at Borda Vella in Encamp to food delivered from the local takeaways see the Xerpa app. If you are a vegetarian or vegan, try Veggie’s World in Andorra la Vella. If you want a good value lunch, try the cafeteria restaurant at CCA near the Dali statue. They have a snack area, but if you walk past that, you come to the buffet room, which opens at midday. You can then have 3 courses for a very reasonable price.
Things to see
There are a few places to see in Andorra La Vella, most of which won’t take long. Near the centre of the town is a bronze statue, La Noblesse du Temps, by Salvador Dali. This statue of a clock on a tree trunk with a crown represents how time dominates humanity.
From the statue, you can see another bridge with Andorra la Vella written in lights when it is dark. This can make a good photo for Instagram.
Casa de La Vall is a manor house used by the parliament as its headquarters. It takes 45 minutes to explore and closes at 2 p.m. for an hour for lunch.
Depending on which way you go to Casa De la Vall, you might come across statues of seven poets sitting on top of tall poles. If you go past the Portuguese embassy, you can pop into the courtyard to see some thought-provoking statues.
The Case de la Vall is in the historical area and worth exploring with its narrow alleyways and many bars and cafes. The area is not very big, so exploring it won’t take long. You could visit Sant Esteve Church while in this area. Also, look out for two post boxes next to each other. One is for Spain, and the other is for France, as they share the postal system in Andorra.
In Andorra la Vella, many steps and alleyways look like they lead to someone’s house, but they are sometimes shortcuts to the levels above. If you come from the valley floor, there is also a lift to Case de la Vall.
About 10 miles from Andorra la Vella is Mirador del Roc del Quer. This semi-transparent observation deck is suspended partly in mid-air amongst the mountains, looking over the valley below. They have now started charging 5 euros per person. You can still get a good view if you aren’t brave enough to go on to the platform. There are toilets and a café, which are only open during the peak season.
There are plenty of churches to see, but my favourite is the Sanctuary of Meritxell Basilica. It is modern and different.
Things for children to do
For young children, there is a play area in Andorra la Vella.
If you want to hear your children scream or laugh for joy, try Naturland in Sant Julià de Lòria. This adventure park has the world’s longest Alpine toboggan and an ariel circuit for adults and older children to try their skill balancing high up. There are also activities for younger children.
You might want to consider Caldea, a spa in Escaldes-Engordany. It is one of Europe’s largest spas. There is a children’s spa where they can get a manicure, massage, or face mask or use the children’s jacuzzi. Otherwise, they can join the adults floating in the outdoor pool, admiring the mountain views.
Summary
Andorra la Vella is a lively town; they even had an exciting parade while we visited. If you aren’t into shopping or hiking, a weekend in the summer is enough to see most things.
If you enjoy shopping, then come with empty suitcases.
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