Passport At The Ready

Tobago is a beautiful island near Trinidad in the Caribbean. Think of an island paradise, and you will get a good idea of what Tobago is like: sandy beaches, palm trees, coral reefs, and friendly people. It is much smaller than Trinidad and has a much lower crime rate. It’s the perfect place to experience the slower pace of Caribbean life.

How to get there

From the UK, it took us 10 hours to fly to Tobago. We flew with British Airways, which stopped at St Lucia first. Some people choose to spend one week in Tobago and one week in St Lucia. Other parts of Europe can take a similar time, but many European countries don’t have direct flights, so the time significantly increases.

Depending on the exact route, it takes 6 to 8 hours from the USA.

Travelling from Australia and New Zealand can take up to 34 hours. Seeing several islands over a longer holiday might be better.

Accommodation

There are the classic beach hotels. We stayed at the Coco Reef Hotel, one of the more expensive hotels. We chose it because it has a harbour wall, meaning you can safely swim and snorkel from the beach. There is a dress code for the evening meal. It’s a four-star hotel that was clean and comfortable, but the rooms didn’t feel luxurious, although the lobby did. I liked it, but I prefer family-style hotels rather than luxury hotels.

There are cheaper hotels for those on a budget. However, before booking, consider how you will get to your hotel and how easy it will be to find food for your meals. We were in Crown Point, which has many apartment accommodations, easy access to restaurants and grocery stores to buy food for picnics, and two places to access the sea.

When to Visit

January, February, and March are the peak seasons in Tobago. They have high temperatures and not much rain. June to December is the wet season. Humidity is higher, and it can suddenly rain. However, the rain comes in short bursts, so it doesn’t significantly impact most people’s enjoyment. The hurricane season is from June to November. You don’t often get hurricanes in Tobago, but you can get strong winds.

We went in April, the shoulder season. The prices were slightly cheaper, and there was no problem finding free loungers at our hotel or the perfect table at breakfast. However, if possible, I would avoid the Easter holiday if it is in April.

The peak turtle season is March to June.

Transport on the island

Car hire – This might be the best optionfor seeing much of the island. You could keep the costs down by hiring a car for a few days when you aren’t chilling out on the local beach.

The main roads are fine for a standard car; however, some roads are rough and better suited to a four-wheel drive. Your insurance might not cover you if you drive on dirt roads. Most people can get by without a four-wheel drive.

Don’t forget they drive on the left.

Taxis – They look like regular cars, but you can tell they are taxis by the letter H at the start of the registration plate. You can flag them down in the street. Confirm the journey price before you travel, as they aren’t metered.

We found local people were happy to call us a taxi for a return journey, but make sure you have a local taxi firm number in case there aren’t locals around.

Our taxi drivers were very friendly and happy to talk about the island. They were much cheaper than the tour operators, and we could arrange to see the attractions for as long as we wanted.

Buses — There are buses, but they aren’t great for exploring the island as they can be unreliable and limited.

Seaweed

Brown seaweed, a type of algae, has turned up on some of the beaches in Tobago. The seaweed is unpleasant; it smells and stops people from enjoying the area. The government is looking at ways to deal with this problem, such as using the seaweed as biofuel.

The seaweed is mainly found on the coast facing the Atlantic Ocean. As a tourist, I wasn’t aware of the problem until we drove by the Atlantic Ocean. If you are not staying near this side of Tobago, the seaweed shouldn’t be a problem. All the beaches we visited were pristine and beautiful, and it shouldn’t put you off visiting the island just because one part has been spoiled. It’s almost as if nature said I gave you such beautiful beaches, it’s only fair if I give you something not so nice on one part of your island, or the rest of the world will be jealous.

Food

Tobago’s food is influenced by the European countries that invaded it (the French, British, and Dutch), as well as Africa and India. As an island, seafood is very popular, especially crab and callaloo (crab meat and a green vegetable stew).

If you have fussy children, several places along Milford Road in Crown Point sell pizzas. You can also get gyros, fish and chips, curries, and ice cream.

There are restaurants where you can try locally caught lobsters cooked to perfection while watching the sunset over the sea.

There aren’t many places listing meals for vegetarians, but you can often find meatless meals such as pizza and pasta dishes. If you require a vegan meal, it might be best to inform the restaurant beforehand and see what they can do.

Tobago Attractions

Pigeon Point

This lovely beach is listed as one of the best in the world. I have been to several of the beaches listed as the best and agree they are nice. While those beaches were beautiful, some had negative points, like a lack of toilets or unsafe swimming. Pigeon Point ticks my boxes as being pretty but also practical. It costs £2 / 3 US dollars to enter the beach area.

As you would expect, there are palm trees, soft white sand, and a warm sea. The thatched-roof jetty makes an iconic photograph.

There are plenty of clean, free toilets and showers, and a lifeguard is usually on duty. The sea has an area roped off, making swimming safe without worrying about jet skis getting too close. If you want food, ice cream, drinks or tourist shops, the beach shops provide for your needs. You can also hire beach umbrellas and loungers if you don’t want to sit on the benches under the palm trees. Many of the boat tours leave from this area.

Englishman’s Bay

This is a pretty secluded beach. There are toilets and a café; you can rent chairs and sun umbrellas.  People like this beach because it is quieter as it doesn’t have jet skis or loud music, and you have a jungle background. No lifeguard is here to warn you when the sea is too rough to swim in.  It probably isn’t a great beach for small children, as there is steep shelving into the sea, and getting out can be tricky.  

But it is the perfect beach for chilling.

Boat trips

There are two types of boat trips: the type with loud music, rum punch, and a crowded boat, which are the party boats. The other type is with a quiet boat, where everyone is offered a bottle of water and has enough life jackets for everyone, if needed. Okay, it is not as clear-cut as that, but make sure you get the trip you prefer.

We went on a boat without the loud music, but we were still offered a chance to jet ski, be pulled around sitting on an inflatable couch or have a rum.  Lots of the boats from Pigeon Point go to the same places.

Nylon Pool is listed as a beach, but it is a strange beach. It is a shallow part of the sea where you can stand in the water. Princess Margaret said the area looks like the pattern her stockings make, and the name has stuck.

Snorkelling over Buccoo Reef is often included in a boat trip. Don’t expect this to be more than just a chance to quickly put your head under the water. We found the sea very choppy and fewer interesting fish than we usually see when snorkelling.

No Man’s Land is a bit of land at the end of a peninsula, which is easy to reach by boat. There are stalls selling food and drinks, making a great stop for the party crowd. We had a picnic on the beach, but some of the others in our group looked a bit bored. If you are not drinking or eating, there is not much to do or much shade. There are no toilets here.

If you want a more peaceful experience, I suggest you do a morning cruise. You will still be near noisy boats at the stops, but partying doesn’t get into full swing until later in the day.

Adventure Farm and Nature Reserve

This is a great place for a nature walk and to see many birds, especially hummingbirds. You will need to wear mosquito spray. There is a small charge, and you need to check before you go that they have availability, as they limit the number of visitors.

Fort George

Fort Georgeis one of the better forts on the island. If you arrive on a cruise, I suggest you arrange a taxi. People are told the fort is only 5 minutes from the dock, which is true, but they don’t say it is up a steep hill, which is hard walking up, even when it isn’t hot.

There are two small museums and lovely views down to the coast. People sometimes take picnics to eat here. The fort is free, but each museum has a small charge.

Exploring the place took us about 1 ½ hours, but one museum was closed.

Tour Operators

Many companies offer trips by boat or land sightseeing. The tours can be expensive, and you should expect some flexibility between what they say they offer and what actually happens.

If you want to see a turtle laying its eggs, they will try to get you there on time, but they can’t guarantee it, as nature has its own timetable. You might also book a tour because it says you can snorkel, but you can’t because they say it is too rough.  

One of the tours advertised now says it is 8 hours long but lists only three activities that take 15 minutes each. In the UK, we expect the tour to be exactly as stated, but on Tobago, it is more of a suggestion, which gives more flexibility.

Festivals

Festivals and carnivals are great ways to learn about the local history and culture. If you time your holiday around one of these events, you can better understand Tobago and have an enjoyable day.

Over Easter, which can be in March or April, there is the Good Friday reenactment where an effigy of Judas is made and the stuffing beaten out of it. However, don’t be surprised if Judas looks like an unpopular local politician.

Goat races are popular on “Easter Tuesday” in Buccoo. Before the racing, there is a parade and a chance to buy local crafts or food. You will probably see a few crab races as well.

Usually, during the last week of April, there is a jazz festival where you can hear expert jazz players at key venues.

During part of July and August, there is a heritage festival, where you can learn more about the local way of life.

In August, there is the Great Race, where speedboats race 85 miles from Trinidad to Tobago. As everyone celebrates this event, expect to see lots of parties and picnics.

In October, there is the Tobago carnival, called “the greatest show on earth.” There are exciting parades with exotic costumes and the beat of calypso music and steelpan. The day starts with people covered in mud and paint dancing in the street, continues with revellers of masquerade bands, and finishes with dancing late into the night.

Tobago Tips

• The tap water is safe to drink, that is official. However, I stuck to bottled water or the hotel’s filtered water after I ran a bath, and the water looked green.
• Don’t wear camouflage clothing as it is illegal.
• It is not a LGBT friendly country. Sex between men is now an imprisonable offence.
• The official currency is the Trinidad and Tobago Dollar. Although you can pay for many things with credit cards, you will probably need some cash.
• Manchineel trees can be found near the coast. Avoid them as they are poisonous, and the sap can cause blisters.
• Their official language is English. However, their dialect might mean you must ask them to repeat themselves until you get used to their accent.
• Trinidad and Tobago are one official country; however, they differ. Trinidad has a higher rate of violent crime. Tobago is much safer and more relaxed, but take the usual precautions, especially during festivities, just like you would in your hometown.
• Nude or topless bathing is illegal.
• All beachwear should be kept to the beaches.
• Most people dress casually; however, if you plan to eat in the more upmarket restaurants, men should pack a shirt with a collar and long trousers, shorts might not be allowed.
• If you want cheaper groceries, pick the shops the locals go to. One shop was obviously for tourists, full of products we recognised from home and much more expensive than the other shops we visited.

Summary

I am surprised more people don’t visit Tobago. It has beautiful beaches and a clear blue sea surrounded by palm trees, which is the typical perfect beach. The sea is warm, even tempting my husband in.

A new airport terminal is about to open, meaning more flights. Now is a good time to visit before the mass crowds realise its potential. Some hotel chains are already considering opening new hotels on the island.  Hopefully, Tobago can keep its charm, benefit from the money tourists bring, and not succumb to mass tourism’s disadvantages. Its rustic, laid-back feeling is part of its character.

Tobago is a gorgeous island that is easy to enjoy. The people speak English and love the same food as we do back home, making it easy to relax and fit in.

There are other places much closer to Europe which have sun and sea, but Tobago feels like a secret escape. Only those in the know appreciate that the extra travel time and costs are worth it. Give it a try.

I have one more day left on this beautiful island, and as the temperature warms up, I must now go; it’s time for another dip in the sea. Come and join me!